Guest ‘God’ Heinrich Hall Explores Ancient Worlds

Heinrich Hall is an archaeologist.  Raised in Frankfurt, Germany, educated in Dublin, Ireland, and now a resident of Athens, Greece he speaks 4 languages including Greek.  He is an active journalist reporting archaeological and cultural developments in print, online, radio and television.

Heinrich has excavated throughout the Eastern Mediterranean, and has an infectious enthusiasm for the history, traditions, cuisine, music and modern culture of the area.  

As the Greece expert guide for British-based cultural travel operator, Peter Sommer Travels he is lucky enough to travel extensively.

Peter Sommer Travels organize and specialize in archaeological, historical and cultural cruises and tours in Turkey, Greece and Italy.

Henrich transports visitors back to the very heartlands of the great civilisations of the Ancient World where they often meet the goddesses of antiquity, see their images, visit their shrines and explore – here he shares his passion… 

1. Artemis: Ephesus, Turkey

Ephesus, one of the greatest centres of the Roman Empire, is among the most spectacularly preserved ancient cities in the world.

Its religious life focused on the huge temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Although the monumental shrine was built in the 6th century BC, and rebuilt in the 4th, its origins go back to the distant “Dark Ages”, as does the statue of Ephesian Artemis as an Eastern fertility goddess, very different from the virgin huntress of later tradition, that you see in Ephesus Museum.

If you go to Ephesus – you can also come there on one of the many cruises we offer – you should also visit Meryem Ana Evi, reputed to be the final home of Virgin Mary, as well as the vast Temple of Apollo at Didyma and, the mountain sanctuary of Zeus at Labraunda.

It's best to stay in one of the beautifully renovated 19th century mansions at Şirince, a lovely village  in the hills near Ephesus (e.g. Pansiyon Selanik). You could try the grape and fruit wines of Şirince, and drop by the Selçuk Köftecisi in the nearby town of Selçuk to try the best köfte (meatballs) of Turkey! 

2. Athena: Athens, Greece

Athena was the ancient Greeks' goddess of wisdom and courage, inspiration and war. She was the patron deity of the greatest city of ancient Greece, Athens, which bears her name to this day.

The city's most famous sight, indeed one of the most famous of all ancient monuments is the Acropolis, the sacred rock at the very heart of Athens, crowned by the glorious Parthenon, the temple of virgin Athena. Built in the mid-5th century BC, when Athens was at the height of her power, it is actually just one of three shrines to Athena on the Acropolis!

On visiting Athens (or if joining us on our definitive tour of the city,) you should also go to the nearby island of Aigina with its great temple of Aphaia.  Discover the shrine of Nemesis, goddess of revenge, at Rhamnous in rural Northern Attica, and admire the beautiful collection of traditional dresses in the wonderful, Benaki Museum.

To stay, I recommend the boutique hotels in Plaka (in the Old Town of Athens) or the luxurious Electra Palace. For food, try the innovative gourmet restaurants that are opening around Aiolou Street and in Kerameikos, and don't miss the excellent Kouzina, near the ancient Agora. 

3. Athena (again): Syracuse, Sicily, Italy

In the 8th century BC, Greek colonists founded a series of cities in Sicily, the most important being Syrakusai, modern Syracuse. Unsurprisingly, they brought their homeland's religious beliefs with them, including the goddess Athena.

Her temple at Syracuse, built  around 480 BC, was one of the most impressive of Sicily's great temples. What makes it unique is its continuing use as a place of worship after 2500 years! Converted into a Christian church around AD 700, it later served as a mosque and is the city's Catholic cathedral today. Hidden behind its 18th century baroque façade, much of the ancient temple's structure is preserved, especially its massive Doric pillars.

Visitors to Syracuse (we offer 2 week or gastronomic trips) can also see the Fonte Aretusa, a sacred spring connected to the goddesses Demeter and Persophone, or make an excursion to Erica, ancient Eryx, where a Norman castle has taken the place of a temple of Aphrodite.

The superb Antico Hotel Roma 1880 stands right oppsite the Temple of Athena, where its altar would have been. For food, you must try the outstanding Ristorante Dioniso, named after the Greek god of wine!

4. Aphrodite: Knidos, Turkey

Knidos is a wonderful site. Set at the and of a long, mountainous peninsula jutting into the Aegean, the ruins of this huge Greek and Roman city lie scattered on the slopes overlooking its twin harbours.

Knidos had many temples, among them Aphrodite, the goddess of beauty, love – and sex! Already in antiquity, it was a tourist magnet. Visitors flocked to see the famous marble statue of the goddess, sculpted by the 4th century BC artist Praxiteles. Breaking with tradition, he depicted Aphrodite naked, creating one of the most beautiful depictions of the female nude in Greek art.

The statue is lost, but Knidos is a memorable site. While there, view the theatre, the remains of the temples of Apollo and Dionysos, and then climb up to the circular foundation that may have been the Temple of Aphrodite itself, in a stunningly beautiful spot.

The Knidos Restaurant, by the site entrance, serves freshly grilled fish on a lovely seaside terrace. There is no accommodation at Knidos, but the serene old village of Eski Datça, 30km to the east, has options, including the Old Datça Houses. 

5. The Minoan Goddess: Crete, Greece

Crete, the largest Greek island, is a place of great and diverse beauty, with a long and fascinating history.

Numerous archaeological sites scattered across the island survive from the Minoan civilisation that thrived in Crete in the 2nd millennium BC. Most famous are the great palaces, but there are also rural settlements, and sacred places located in towns, on mountain peaks or in caves. The nature of Minoan religion is not fully understood, but many believe that it included the worship of a great mother goddess, protecting the fertility of humans and nature alike.

The best way to explore that mysterious culture is to visit its remains, and see the wonderful wall paintings, sculpture and superb painted vases, all on show in Crete's fine museums. Visitors should certainly seek out the Palaces of Knossos and Phaistos and the Heraklion Museum, but also some smaller sites, and simultaneously take in Crete's landscapes and lively traditions, including its excellent cuisine and distinctive music. 

The island's new agritouristic complexes, like Thalori in the mountain village of Kapetaniana, are great places to stay. For food, there are many fantastic options, such as Kouzinerie in Heraklion. 

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